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Transcript
Okay, so this week, I have two questions to answer. The first is from Suzanne Hawken, and the second is from Tim Barton, who are both Facebook group members.
So, let’s get started with Suzanne’s question …
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Thanks for that, Suzanne. If you recognize her voice, Suzanne was a guest on the podcast back in March and has also asked an audio question before.
Okay …
How to present your work to clients
So she is visiting customers and needs a way to show examples of her work.
Back in the day, I used a photo binder that held twenty 11×14 prints. It went everywhere with me. The iPad hadn’t been invented, and large laptops were very expensive and slow.
There was a wedding photographer who worked around here in the early 2000s who took large framed prints to customers’ homes. That must have been a real pain, but he showed the customer what he was selling: large framed prints.
Today you could do the same thing with canvases and also photo boards. Both are lightweight and not as cumbersome as framed prints. The downside of carrying them everywhere is general wear and tear.
Showing a customer a large print that shows signs of wear isn’t what you want them to see.
So I would use a 17-inch laptop or, even better, show your work on the customer’s large-screen TV. I know that not all large screens give perfect color rendition, but if you want to show your work as big as possible, it’ll do the job, and you don’t have to carry it around with you.
One thing to remember is that not everyone looks at a photo like you do. Most people look at photos on social media, such as Instagram, which has 2.4 billion users who enjoy looking at small images. So don’t get too hung up on having to have large prints to show customers.
Now, if you only sell printed wall art, you could consider using a room in your home or renting a small space to display your work where you can meet customers.
Showing customers large framed prints really does help you sell more of them. Especially when the customer can compare a 36×48 print to a 16×24, the 16×24 will look tiny in comparison.
Before I move on to the next question, there is another way to show your work and that is books. Books are a great way to show off your design and photography skills. They are cheaper than ever to buy and easy to compile.
There is lots of profit in selling books.
Okay, next is Tim Barton’s question …
Which Flash should I buy?
“I’m just about to buy my first flash. I’m looking to use it for portrait photography. Are there any important features I should look for when choosing one, and what are some tips to get me started using it? Thanks!”
Tim mentioned Godox lights in his Facebook group post, so I’m going to compare the TT685, V860 III, and V1.
The first thing that you look at is …
Type of Battery
Speedlight-type flashes are powered by four AA batteries or a Lithium battery.
All my flashes run on AA batteries, and it can be a pain. If I was shooting a wedding, I would carry 20 or more batteries in my bag, just in case. I used 12 on an 8-hour event. As the batteries lose power, it takes longer for the flash to regenerate, ready for the next photo.
Having a flash with a rechargeable Lithium battery is a game changer. Godox says they will capture 480-500 photos on a charge. So, if you shoot weddings you would need some extra batteries to get you through the day.
Because lithium batteries make life so much easier, I would rule out the TT685 due to it being powered by AAs.
Next is …
Power Output
Most flashes have a GN, which stands for Guide Number. The V860 has a GN of 60, which is 60 meters or 196 feet. That indicates how much light that flash can produce. The higher the number, the further the light will travel.
For some reason, the V1 doesn’t have a Guide Number, but I think it will be the same as the V860.
Both these flashes put out 76 watts, which is a lot for a Speedlight-type flash. But if you are going to be setting up a studio, you might want to look at getting Monolights. Godox has the AD300 (300w), AD400 (400w), and AD600 (600w). You could also use them outdoors if needed.
Okay, next is …
TTL and Manual
TTL stands for “Through The Lens.”
Both TTL and Manual are how the flash controls the exposure. TTL lets the camera decide how much light to put on the subject, and Manual lets you set the power.
TTL is very useful for shooting events. But if you are taking portraits, I would go with Manual settings.
It’s pretty easy. The settings start at full power (1/1), ½, ¼, ⅛, 1/16, 1/32, 1/64, and 1/128. So you could start at 1/16 power, and if there isn’t enough light in the photo, change it to ⅛.
I have some flashes that are manual settings only, no TTL, and some that offer both. The TTL flashes were used for events because they would make the fiddly decisions for me. Manual settings would work but would need constant input as the scenes changed.
Both the V1 and V860 have TTL. In fact, the AD3/4/600 models also offer TTL.
HSS – High-Speed Sync
On my old Canon 430EX flash, the regular speed is 1/60 of a second, and the High-Speed Sync function raises it to 1/200. That is the fastest shutter speed you can use with that flash.
Modern flashes, like the V1 and V860, have a High-Speed Sync of 1/8000, which opens up a whole new world of creativity.
If I had to choose between the two, I would get the V1 due to its round lens, compared to the V860, which is rectangular. I think it will give a nicer effect for portraits. But, if the lights were to be used only in a studio, I would go with the AD600 and an AD400.
If you are thinking of getting a Godox flash, you can also get them from Adorama under the name Flashpoint. Apparently, they service them as well. I have no idea why they use a different name.
Right, I hope you found that helpful. If you have a question for me, please get in touch.
Thanks to Suzanne and Tim for the questions. Oh, happy Canada Day to all the Canadian listeners, and have a great Independence Day on the 4th to my American friends.
Okay, I’ll be back next week with a Lithium battery overflowing with waffle.
Talk to you soon. Bye.